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Module 7: Mature, Male, and Dark Skin Makeup

What you will learn:

  • Male Makeup
  • Mature Makeup
  • Dark Skin Makeup
  • Television – HD Makeup

“Everything has beauty, but not everyone sees it.” ― Confucius

1.1 Male makeup

In modern times it has become much more acceptable for men to wear makeup. In fact, men even have product lines that are specifically designed for their skin type and lifestyle. Men’s skin differs greatly from women’s, but buying into a line of skincare and makeup that’s just for men is not necessary. As we have constantly noted, the products you select for your kit must be products you can manipulate i.e. add more or less for the coverage that particular client needs or perhaps mix it with another medium, giving it another texture altogether.

1.2 How men’s skin differs

Male skin differs structurally insignificant physiological aspects:

THICKNESS

Male skin is about 25% thicker than that of a woman.

A man’s skin thins gradually with age, whereas a woman’s skin thickness remains constant until about the mid-40s; after menopause female skin will thin at a significant rate.

COLLAGEN

Men have a higher collagen density than women. Because of this naturally occurring collagen density difference, it is more common for women to show premature signs of aging faster than men. This could explain the popular saying “men are like a fine wine; they get better looking with age”.

SEBUM

Men have larger pores and produce more sebum. Problem-prone skin such as breakouts, clogged pores, and blackheads can be more exacerbated and last longer in male skin due to higher sebum levels. Unlike women, for male skin, the sebum production remains the same throughout their life and does not decrease with age. Oily skin will not age as quickly as dry and dehydrated skin does, which is another explanation why generally speaking, women do not age as gracefully as men.

TEXTURE

Male skin texture is different than that of a woman’s. It is tougher and rougher because of a thicker stratum conium (the outermost layer of the skin). Men are also prone to developing deeper facial wrinkles which are associated with subcutaneous fat loss.

FACIAL HAIRS

Regular shaving stresses male facial skin. One of the main daily grooming actives for men is shaving and this can lead to more sensitive, easily irritated skin. Shaving can lead to cuts, razor burns (folliculitis), ingrown hairs (pseudofolliculitis barbae) as well exposing fresh skin to the sun and other aggressive environmental factors more often, as shaving acts as a mechanical exfoliant.

1.2 Male makeup requests

Your main source of work will probably come from women, but you may also have men requesting to have their makeup done too. With the acceptance of men wearing makeup and the legalization of gay marriages, you may start to delve into weddings and special event makeup for men. On top of that, there are many men who dress in drag, perform in the theatre, are transgender, or work in the media and require general makeup.

We will do not cover creative or drag makeup in this course. But we do cover general day makeup for men. If you are asked to do something more creative then the same principles apply for eye makeup, lips, contouring and brows as what we have learnt when learning special event makeup.

INDUSTRY TIP: It is important to be sensitive to the needs of others. Some men may still be uncomfortable with advertising the fact that they wear makeup as part of their everyday routine or they may not advertise that they are part of the drag or transgender community. As a professional, you should practice full discretion by means of not posting any of your client’s pictures online or if you get a sense that they are uncomfortable with letting others know that they are having their makeup done, then you may wish to leave a gap between clients, as they may not wish to be seen visiting your place of work by your other clients. In the same light, you as an Artist may uncomfortable doing makeup on a man, and that is totally ok, in fact, it’s totally okay regardless if they are male or female. Simply and professionally refer them to another Artist or let them know that you are booked.

1.3 Steps for a day look

  1. Moisturise your client’s skin. As men usually have more oil production than women, try to avoid using heavy creams. Stick to a light lotion or use less cream.
  2. Apply a little lip balm and exfoliate their lips using a disposable mascara wand.
  3. Use a primer that is silicone base, as this will be optimal for men’s skin, as their pores tend to be larger than women’s.
  4. If you are using a very natural foundation base, you may decide to colour correct as underneath.
  5. Select the type of coverage you wish to use on your client’s skin. A BB cream is great to help even out skin tone and give a luminous radiance to their skin. If you prefer to also add coverage then opt for an oil-free, water-resistant foundation.
  6. Apply a small amount of concealer to any breakouts, uneven skin tones, or under the eye.

INDUSTRY TIP: The application of men’s makeup base is slightly different due to facial hairs. If your client has a beard you do not need to apply foundation onto his beard, simply work around it. Also, focus on applying the foundation in a downward motion or in the direction of hair growth by pressing it into the skin using a brush or sponge, otherwise, facials hairs around the client’s face will stand up. Also remember that you may need to apply a small amount on the client’s neck, both back and front, and chest.

  1. Set with a powder, depending on the finish you require or the event the makeup is for, you may need to set either using a full-coverage powder or a very light translucent powder. If your client is a stage performer or in front of the camera then you will require more powder and regular touch-ups.
  2. Apply a small amount of bronzer everywhere, including down the neck, back and front, and chest, and jawline (if your client does not have facial hair) ideally using a matt bronzer. Depending on the look, you will probably not be required to contour the skin, however, you could do a little highlighting using concealers or lighter foundation under the eyes, cheekbones, and forehead. Also, blush is optional, if you do decide to use blush use a neutral colour rather than a pink or peach.
  3. Brush the brows in place and naturally fill in the brows (optional). You may wish to ask your client if he usually has his brows filled in, this will help you determine if you should fill them in or simply give them a brush. If he does opt for his brows to be filled in then there is no need to shape them or chisel/define them. Simply apply a natural powder to help fill any gaps and to make them look slightly fuller. You may also wish to set them with clear brow gel.

10.Some men may be okay with mascara whilst some may not. If you are doing an everyday look or perhaps working with someone who prefers a natural look you may skip this step altogether or opt for clear mascara instead. If you decide to use a coloured mascara then it is a good idea to use a mascara that is the same colour as their lashes, i.e. brown or black. Keep it subtle. Too much black mascara could make them look too feminine.

  1. Apply a lip balm or lip tint to their lips to give their lips a hint of natural colour. You want to make their lips look like they have a natural blush to them.

2.1 Mature makeup

In this topic we will cover the basic differences of what a mature skin may require, we will cover this via a soft glam approach to makeup. It is important to note that just because industry tells us that all mature clients suit a natural or soft glam makeup doesn’t mean all mature clients will request this style of makeup. A client of a particular age may request a dark smokey eye and bold lip and as a professional, it is your job to ensure the client receives their request, but not only that, you must also ensure that you know the client understands their request.

Prepping is essential for mature skin, especially if you don’t have a range of foundations and products that are designed for mature skin. The most common complaint with mature skin clients is that their foundation makes them look older and that their skin looks. Mature skin is usually dry skin, so therefore the number one rule with mature skin is moisture. If you don’t add enough moisture via a cream or spray, then your client’s foundation will look dry, dull and aged.

2.3 Products for a mature skin

EXFOLIATION: To exfoliate is to remove the topmost layer of dead skin cells, in order to expose the newer skin cells underneath. An exfoliated skin will look naturally radiant and fresh, even before putting on any other product. Mature skin can benefit from exfoliation, however, it is important not to overdo it. If you exfoliate too much or too vigorously, then the skin begins to thicken, giving that crocodile skin look and feel over time. Most clients don’t exfoliate, some don’t even know what it means to exfoliate. You should educate your client to gently exfoliate 2-3 times per week.

MOISTURISER: If you exfoliate you MUST moisturise. This is the most important product for any client but especially a mature client. Mature clients can easily use a thicker richer creams, as their skin will truly benefit from it. If possible, try to use a rich and radiant moisturiser on your client, but if all you have is a light lotion then use it, just use a lot more or layer it with a moisturising spray. If you have an eye cream then use it around the eyes and lips, if not simply use your face cream in these areas.

PRIMERS: It is a good idea to use an oil-based primer with a mature aged client, as these products are more moisturising on the skin, however, it is not crucial, as most of the moisture will come from your moisturiser, not your primer. Another option is to use a wrinkle filler as part of your prepping step. These products fill in wrinkles with ingredients like Hyaluronic Acid, which temporarily makes the skin look and feel plumpy.

FOUNDATIONS: Usually a liquid or cream foundation is best. It is recommended you build your coverage slowly and layer it with a mineral water spray or setting spray to add extra moisture. If your foundation is heavy, then mix it with a moisturiser or a radiant makeup oil to thin down the consistency. Buff the makeup into the skin, so that it melts into the skin making it look like skin rather than a layer of foundation.

CONCEALER: Use a lightweight concealer, nothing heavy that will drag down the skin, especially around the eye area. It should be hydrating and moisturising. Some mature clients may still experience blemish breakouts, so be sure to use concealer to cover these.

POWDER: You can use powder on a mature client, However, less is always best. Opt for a lightweight translucent powder to set your foundation. The more power you apply, the more fine lines will appear and the skin will also start to look lifeless and older.

CONTOUR AND HIGHLIGHT: Depending on the clients request you may want to do a little contouring and highlighting. It is recommended you keep this natural, so either use creams to do a natural contour or a light sweep of a powder. Alternatively, you may wish to apply a natural bronzing powder instead. It is not recommended that you apply too much sparkle or glitter through your highlighter, instead, think dewy highlight rather than sparkly when it comes to highlighting.

BLUSH: If the contour is natural then you may want to focus a little more on the client’s blush. The blush should always be about making the client’s features look fresh rather than overdone. You may opt for a cream blush, just note that it may not last as long. Most mature clients enjoy a more prominent blush, especially deeper colours like plum or brown, but be sure to check with them first.

EYESHADOW: As we have mentioned throughout this course, the eye shadow you select will be dependent on your client’s request, however as a rule of thumb, you do not want to use anything too sparkly or use only matt colours, as these will make your client look older or not age-appropriate. Use an eye shadow with a sheen or a slight shimmer and incorporate some matt or satin finish eye shadow colours. When creating depth and definition try to stick to browns or plums rather than black and greys, but then again it is all dependent on the overall requested look. Lastly, if possible steer clear from bright or neon colours.

BROWS: It is surprising how many mature clients have brows already tattooed on. If this is the case, then it is recommended that you still apply a little product on their brows. If you have a client with tattooed eyebrows and don’t apply any brow product on, then the client may feel like they are not getting the full makeup service. Simply and lightly add a little colour using a pencil or powder, even if visually there is no difference to you. Usually, mature client’s will opt for a very natural brow to add density and a little shape. Do this with a little powder.

EYELINER: This is a tricky one. Most mature clients will request a natural liner, which is great as you can easily tight line her upper lids with a soft brown or black. Or you can apply a natural eyeliner with a soft pencil and smudge it out so it looks slightly smokey. However, it may be more difficult if a mature client requests a winged liner or a more defined liner especially if the skin around their eye crapes. Your eyeliner will never be as sharp as on other clients with tighter skin around the eye area, it is almost impossible. But if your client insists on a winged liner then try to talk them into a small wing. Also try to avoid lining the lower lash line with dark colours, as this can age the eyes and make them look older.

LIP COLOUR: Most mature clients will prefer a more defined lip colour, this doesn’t necessarily mean a bright red. Usually, they will opt for a burnt rose, maroon, terracotta brown or rich brown. It is essential that you apply lip liner before and after lip colour, to avoid bleeding and to sharpen the edges. Limit any gloss as it usually bleeds quicker on mature clients. Mature clients will usually opt for a rich creamy lipstick rather than a matt or long-lasting lip colour.

LASHES: As we age it is quite normal for our lashes to get thinner and become shorter. To help combat this, apply a generous amount of mascara but to also talk your mature client into lashes. Many mature clients will hesitate at the thought of lashes, as they feel it will make them look unnatural, but you should educate them on the different lash styles and how the right lashes will complement their overall look. Individual lashes are a good option for mature clients.

3.1 Dark Skin Makeup

If you are a Makeup Artist that can work with people of all complexions, especially people with really dark skin then congratulations, you are miles ahead of everyone else. Artists that can work with all complexions become very popular very quickly in the community, just like Artists who understand different cultural makeup or makeup requests based on cultural preferences.

When working with very dark skin we must understand that not all colours will pop on the skin and you usually need to opt for richer, warmer tones rather than anything frosted or too cool. Once you have primed the skin according to the client’s skin type, concerns and request, you next want to colour correct any areas of concern.

COLOUR CORRECTION FOR DARKER SKIN:

A popular choice for colour correcting darker skin under the eyes, blemishes, around the mouth, hairline or eyelids is a warm/orange/peach colour corrector. Lavender/ purple colours may be used in areas that are dull and need a little bit of radiance and life, for example on the forehead or cheeks. As darker skin has a high level of pigmentation, it is common to have areas that have overdeveloped pigment cells, creating a higher concentration of pigmentation in some areas, or uneven skin complexion.

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FOUNDATION:

Matching the right foundation to the right undertone is crucial for any skin type, especially darker skin. A key point of difference you may notice on a darker skin tone is that sometimes they may have 2 or 3 skin tones on the face or their face might be slightly darker or lighter then their neck. For example, some clients may have a darker area around the mouth and hair line, lighter on the forehead and cheeks and uneven pigmentation everywhere else. The easiest way to tell this in a photo is by turning the image upside down, you will distinctly be able to see darker and lighter areas in any upside down photo. Choosing the right colour foundation means also ensuring the foundation colour is warm enough for their tone or it will turn ashy.

INDUSTRY TIP: With cultural considerations in mind, some darker skin clients may prefer a slightly lighter shade of foundation, as beauty in their culture may be represented by lighter skin. Consult with your client first to be sure and approach this choice with care. If the request for a lighter shade of foundation is extreme i.e. 3 or more shades lighter than their natural skin colour, then make sure you warn them that such a difference will make their skin look ashy and grey.

 

CONTOUR AND HIGHLIGHT: Once you have colour corrected and applied your foundation you may still want to contour and highlight using a cream or powder. Remember to only go 1-3 shades lighter than the client’s natural skin or it can look ashy. If you decide to bake your contour then you can, just remember not to use a powder that will not leave a white film once you remove it.

POWDER: Use either a loose or compact powder that is appropriate for the client’s skin type, and be sure that it is still within a warm tone.

EYESHADOWS: If your client’s eyelids are quite dark, try to colour correct them first, then apply a slightly lighter eye primer or concealer to create a slightly lighter canvas. Still keep it warm, be cautious not to go too light. Set it with a matching power. You can choose almost any eye shadow colour for darker skin clients, as long as they are not pastels, too neutral or too cool.

BLUSH: The darker the skin, the more vibrant and bolder the blush should be. Avoid anything pale or too natural as it either won’t show up or it will look very ashy. Look for rich deep colours like plums and burgundy.

LIPSTICK: It is common for women with darker skin to also have lips which have a darker outline and a lighter inside, this can change the lipstick shade once it has been applied. To avoid this you may have to create one tone of lip shade by using their foundation shade on their lips first. When applying lip liner or any lip colour be conscious of the fact that a client may not wish to accentuate their lips or lip size, so line the lips up and choose a colour accordingly. Just like all the other makeup elements for dark skin clients, avoid using chalky pale colours and keep it rich, bold and warm. If you are unsure of what colour to select, simply ask the client what lipstick colours they normally wear and go from there.

QUIZ module 7:

  1. Male skin differs from womens skin as it is

A: 25% thicker

B: Has a higher collagen density

C: Generally produces more oil

D: All of the above

(answer is D)

  1. True or False

Because men have different skin to women, you should always use products that are specifically designed for men.

(answer is False)

  1. True or False

The most important factor to remember when working with mature skin is to make sure their skin is highly moisturised.

(answer is True)

  1. How many times a week should a mature client gently exfoliate their skin? A: Never

B: 1-2 times per week

C: 2-3 times per week

D: when ever they feel the need to

(answer is C)

  1. True or False

Whenever you exfoliate your skin you should always moisturise it right after. (answer is True)

  1. Unless requested by the client, what eye shadows should you steer clear from for a mature client?

A: Shimmery eye shadow

B: Using only matt eye shadows

C: Black and grey coloured eye shadow

D: All of the above

(answer is D)

  1. True or False

Generally speaking a darker skin colour should stick to warm, rich, deep colours and avoid anything too neutral, cool or pale.

(answer is True)

  1. True or False

On darker skin complexions, a purple colour corrector will neutralize any red or pigmented areas (answer is False)

  1. True or False

The term “Ashy” is used to describe a darker skin that has turned pale or grey due to the makeup colour chosen.

(answer is True)

  1. True or False

A darker skin client may have more than 1 skin colour/tone on their face.

(answer is True)

(Insert Mature Skin Makeup Here Video 11)

STUDENT UPLOAD PHOTO HERE

(Insert Male Makeup Video 12 Here)

STUDENT UPLOAD PHOTO HERE

(Insert Dark Skin Makeup 13 Here)

STUDENT UPLOAD PHOTO HERE

Practical 4.1

Do you remember the very first makeup look you did on yourself in module 1? We asked you to search your favourite makeup look online and apply this look on yourself. Well after weeks of practice we want to see just how far you have come. Please replicate that look once again and upload a selfie with the same pose, same camera angle and if possible same lighting and location. We want to see the difference, how far you have come, and we bet that you do too.

(Student Upload original Selfie from module 1 here)

(Student Upload the new Selfie of the same makeup look here)

CHECK LIST TO COMPLETE BEFORE MOVING ON TO MODULE 7:

Submit Module 7 Quiz

Upload photo of Male Makeup, Mature Skin, Dark Skin makeup (3 photos)

Upload Practical 4.1 (2 photos)

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